The Grammar School at Leeds' BLOG

Malawi Trip - Day 15, Friday 17 July 2009

By 8 o’clock the tour party had loaded the luggage, had breakfast and were ready for another action packed day. First stop was Mchesi Primary School in Lilongwe. This was a recently built primary school on the edge of a township which catered for over 1250 pupils. Although the government had provided buildings there were no desks for the pupils and staff and virtually no resources. Over 400 of the pupils were orphans and many could not afford the 700 kwacha (approximately £3.50) for a uniform. The Rotary Club of Lilongwe had identified the school as a worthy project. From a recently arrived container we were able to commit clothing for the orphans and reading books for their sparsely stocked library. On top of this we promised to supply desks for the Standard 8 class, a GSAL bursary for an orphan to go to secondary school, wall posters for each classroom and uniforms for the needy. This was certainly a school in need and contrasted starkly with what we take for granted. No one could remain unmoved by class after class sitting on a concrete floor for their day’s lessons with no external stimulus to brighten up the lessons. This contrast was further illustrated when we stopped at ‘Shoprite’, a South African supermarket chain to buy food for lunch. Even the cheapest item cost more than the average daily wage. Plenty to think about!

After two hours steady progress down the much repaired M1 we reached the newly constructed Golomoti escarpment road. The views are absolutely stunning as the road snaked its way down the rift valley in a series of hair pin bends. At the bottom we made a small detour to sample the carvings on offer at the fabulously named Mtakataka turn-off. Kwacha flew everywhere as the pupils bartered their way up and down the stalls. The buses groaned as an extra ton of wood was carried on as presents and reminders of Malawi (make sure the furniture polish is ready).

By 4 p.m. we entered the idyllic surroundings of Club Makokola – white sands, calm lake, expansive swimming pool and food to die for.

There was just enough time for a quick swim as the setting sun dropped behind the palm trees and made a silhouette of the distant mountains. This must be one of the most photographed views in Malawi. As tradition in Africa dictates it was time for a sundowner – excuse me waiter can I have ……….

Malawi - Day 20 - Wednesday 22 July

MOUNTAIN CONQUERED!

We’ve just heard that the Malawi ‘lot’ are on top of the mountain!

No specifics about WHICH mountain - I’m sure relevant parents out there will know what this means! - just that the weather is fine and they can see for miles.

RK

Malawi Trip - Day 16 - Saturday 18 July

The group could deservedly take advantage of a lie-in as breakfast was served from 7.00 a.m. to 9.30 a.m. Despite this a few hardy souls emerged to bask in the early morning sun and two staff were seen doing hippo impressions in the lake’s still waters. Breakfast consisted of an almost unlimited choice of fruit juice, five different cereals, a variety of freshly baked breads, exotic fruits, yoghurt, full English breakfast, cheeses –or there again all of them!

The activities on offer consisted of a boat trip to snorkel and swim off Boadzulu Island, water-skiing, canoeing or the simple sport of lying back and dreaming of the next e-mail, meal, journey on a dirt road, mountain to climb (delete where appropriate).

A few of the pupils took the opportunity to play a round of golf at the fabulously designed Mlambe course.  This is a 9-hole par three with water on almost every hole set out amidst towering baobab and palm trees.

In the afternoon we boarded the MV Sunbird or one of two speedboats for a trip to Boadzulu Island. Nearing the island the crew threw fish overboard to attract the fish eagles from the island to swoop down and pluck the fish off the surface – the animal equivalent of a fast food takeaway. Anchored in the bay there was a choice of snorkelling to view the myriad of ciclids that swarm around the island or diving and jumping from the back of the boat. Most diving efforts scored low on the degree of difficulty but high on the tsunami scale for execution.

As we sailed back to the resort we watched the setting sun dip below the mountains. The sky was  highlighted with a reddish glow – a picturesque backdrop for the many fishing boats casting their nets.

The evening entertainment consisted of a troupe of acrobatics and local Gulu Wankulu dancers – all performed rhythmically to the sound of African drumming. An exciting end to yet another action packed day.

Malawi Trip - Day 14 - Thursday 16 July

Another early morning start as the group prepared to leave the idyllic setting of Mfuwe Lodge. We all took the opportunity to stand contemplatively on the raised decking above the lagoon, committing the scene to long-term memory. Reality beckoned as we loaded up the buses and set off at 7.15 a.m. for the 110 km journey on the dirt road to Chipata and the Malawi border. However, first stop was Tribal Textiles for some retail therapy. Within minutes the pupils had racked up over $1000 of purchases of the highly decorative textiles produced by the local artists – I trust you have enough wall space for the hangings!

Six dusty hours later we reached Chipata where Mr B and Mrs Stiles made a mad dash around the local supermarket loading up 60 bottles of ice cold water in a time that qualified them for the shopping 400m in the next retail Olympics. Fully refreshed and hydrated we arrived at the border for a repeat of the bureaucratic nightmare but fortunately without the taxes. By 6 o’clock we reached the Korea Gardens Lodge for a much deserved swim, cold drink and Chinese buffet before retiring for a much deserved sleep.

Malawi Trip - Days 12 & 13 - Tue 14 & Wed 15 July

Two days of early rising, long safaris and endless game watching. Groups of eight pupils and staff were taken around the park in specially adapted high seat land cruisers by experienced game scouts. The various sightings were eagerly shared at rendezvous points when the groups stopped for drinks or lunch. At the end of the first morning’s drive we stopped for brunch on the side of a dry riverbed where the catering staff had assembled a kitchen to feed a massive full English breakfast to 51 very hungry game spotters.

Elephant, impala, kudu, puku, buffalo, monkeys, baboons, giraffe and countless birds were on everyone’s sighting list during the morning drive. The evening drive was even more spectacular when the traditional ‘sundowner’ was interrupted by the barking of baboons, which signalled the presence of a predator. Within minutes the guides had picked out a leopard with their powerful searchlights and we watched eagerly as the leopard slithered through the undergrowth in search of prey.

As though this was not enough we came across six female lions hunting down impala. They totally ignored the six vehicles as they concentrated on tracking supper.

Some groups were fortunate to see a leopard pulling an impala up a tree only to drop the carcase and lose it to a waiting hyena.

The second morning was just as good as different groups found herds of buffalo, families of giraffe and two extremely large male lions sleeping under a tree. At night we spotted hippos feeding out of the water, several hyena, countless genets, civets, several types of mongoose and elephant shrews. The highlight was the sighting of another leopard with its cub. The whole experience was rounded off with a magnificent feast in the ‘boma’ seated around a blazing open fire. The friendliness and efficiency of the Mfuwe Lodge staff ensured that everyone’s needs were met and surpassed.

In only two days we had all come to cherish the unspoilt beauty of Africa and its wildlife. Tired bodies fell asleep to the sounds of the African night and were awakened by the dawn chorus – which reminds me – zzzzzzzzzzzzzz!

Malawi Trip - Day 11 - Monday 13 July

Between 5.30 and 6.00 a.m. everyone had packed, stored suitcases on the Tata bus and loaded the hired transport with minimal luggage. Unfortunately the ‘Rainbow’ bus had decided to take early retirement with arthritic pistons. Its replacement arrived just in time (a miracle in itself in Africa) only to suffer gearbox trouble as it arrived. Plan C quickly substituted the Kamuzu Academy coaster and the final group set off only two hours behind schedule.

It is on long journey like this that the 51 intrepid explorers aboard Japanese built buses discover they are not Japanese size people. Team bonding could not be avoided as the three vehicles made its way to the Zambian border like mechanised sardine tins. A ‘brief’ stop at Mchinji to denude the supermarket of all things edible and to use the single serviceable toilet (51 people times 90 seconds each = too long). Crossing the border was a two hour bureaucratic nightmare of form filling, passport stamping and every excuse to pay a fee (carbon tax, local insurance, number plate tax and toll duty).

As we entered Zambia it was obvious to all that it was a richer country than Malawi. The majority of the houses around Chipata were brick built with corrugated roofing and we even came across our first set of traffic lights (is this a symbol of affluence?). Turning north I was glad to see that the badly pot-holed tar road of 2003 had been re-surfaced and progress was good. Unfortunately, the repair of the small stretch of tar road had been paid for by not grading the 90 mile stretch of dirt road. Six hours of bumping along corrugated ruts saw us arrive at the gates of the game park.

 The journey, however, was soon forgotten as the pupils viewed the luxury chalets incorporating a sunken bath with a view over the lagoon of animals grazing and drinking. The luxury was reinforced by a magnificent candlelit dinner outside on the suspended decking with the occasional hippo drifting through the grounds. Fully nourished to bursting point everyone was escorted to the rooms by guards knowing that tomorrow they could ‘lie in’ until 6.15 a.m.

POSTSCRIPT - all back safely from Zambia and heading for Lake Malawi later today (Fri 17 July).

Malawi Trip - Day 10 - Sunday 12 July

Today was a day of meeting deadlines. The first was to complete the task of painting the four classrooms before 1 p.m. The entire group descended on the village and were soon busy painting flags and maps on the wall. Mr Brindley provided a little bit of quality control on a map of Africa to ensure the Nile actually started at Lake Victoria (an omission caused by a crease in the geography book it was being copied from). The frenzied activity was like a well known cookery programme re-titled ‘Ready Steady Paint’. With seconds on the clock remaining the last full stop, geographical feature and equation was completed. Unlike the TV show everyone was a winner!

The final act at the school was to donate more books, pens, pencils, exercise books, footballs and netballs. The school now has one of the best libraries for a primary school with over 1200 titles in stock. Education is the key to eradicating poverty and at least the children of Ngolokoto now have a better chance of receiving the education they deserve.

Back to KA for the next quest – a braai (barbeque) at the swimming pool followed by two hours emailing. The final task was to pack suitcases and bags for the journey to Zambia.

At supper Mr Brindley ensured he was already half way to the exit when he announced the 5 a.m. wake up call for the trip to Luangwa Game Park. Metaphorical daggers followed his back with unerring accuracy Ouch!

Malawi Trip - Day 9 - Saturday 11 July

The luxury of a late breakfast (8.00 a.m.) the tour party set out like an army of Zulu warriors on a mission of conquest. Instead of shields and assegais we were armed to the teeth with paint brushes, pencils, marker pens and rulers. One small group headed for the paediatric ward of Kasungu District Hospital while the majority made the 10 mile drive to Ngolokoto village to paint Mbonekera Primary School.

Since the last tour GSAL had financed the building of four new classrooms for Standard 5, 6, 7 and 8. The eager beavers soon had outlines of maths problems, formulae, English tenses, maps, national flags and biology lifecycles commensurate with the level of the class using the room. Meanwhile back at the hospital the first task was to distribute teddy bears to each child on the ward – for the majority this was the first toy they had ever owned or played with. Once we had finished playing ‘Santa’ it was out with the pencils to reproduce the sketches made by Will Lord of numerous cartoon characters and animals. 

Gradually the classrooms were converted into giant textbooks with each wall representing a different subject. However, the school has no electricity so work was suspended for the day as the sun gradually set over Chipata Mountain. At the hospital the ‘worker ants’ had foregone lunch to finish not only the front of the building and the corridors but to decorate every ward and bay with bright, friendly pictures. The ‘drab’ industrial grey had been enlivened with an assortment of cartoon characters, animals and smiley faces.  The nurses were delighted with the final effect and the smiles on the children’s faces were a just reward for a job well done.

As darkness fell the teams at the school stood back to admire their handiwork and more to the point to wonder how to remove the myriad of colour that adorned their own hands, faces and clothing. It would be a real challenge to complete the task in the little time available tomorrow but everyone was determined to finish the job and leave behind a fitting reminder of the efforts of one group of children to help another group less fortunate then themselves. Well done everyone!

Malawi Trip - Day 8 - Friday 10 July

The pupils and staff sprang in to breakfast, bright-eyed and bushy tailed ready to meet the day’s hectic schedule with true fortitude. Or were my eyes deceiving me? I must see that optician again – this pair of glasses has a distinct rose tint to them.

The first part of the programme was a visit to Kasungu District Hospital. This is a referral centre for the 23 outlying clinics that serves 800,000 people. There is one doctor, 4 clinical officers and 40 nurses to service the out patients clinic and the 180 bed inpatient care. The Matron, Mrs Chipeta, gave us a warm welcome and explained the operation of the hospital. The next 45 minutes proved a harrowing and disturbing experience as the groups of pupils and staff were given a conducted tour of the facilities and some of the wards.  The lack of basic supplies and trained personnel places an enormous burden on the few medical staff available. We were pleased to have donated over £1000 worth of medicines and over twenty boxes of assorted dressings and equipment. One positive moment was the visit to the under five clinic that we painted with Mister Men characters in 2001. The room was as pristine as we had left it and obviously brought some cheer to a depressing environment. Everyone agreed that the medical staff at the hospital have an almost impossible task each and every day and fully deserved the extra equipment and medicines that we could provide.

The next activity was to ‘pop up’ Ngara Mountain. Guided by a forestry ranger (and ehrds of primary school children) we ascended the mountain with frequent stops to admire the unfolding landscape (in between reducing the oxygen debt and resting weary calf muscles). As we emerged above the tree line we could see the Kasungu plain stretching out in the direction of Lilongwe with the Bua River meandering its way to the lake. The ‘fast’ group, guided by the forest ranger, ended up at the far fire tower which the ranger had decided was a better view. Meanwhile the ‘less fast’ group ambled to the top for a leisurely lunch. It reminded me of the story of the ‘hare and the tortoise’. Mr Brindley promptly opened the ‘sweet shop’ and distributed confectionary of various types to the successful climbers.

The last item on the itinerary was a visit to Chilanga School for the Blind who received us in their traditional manner with beautiful singing and drumming. This time we were able to reciprocate with a song from the ‘tour choir’. Both performances were enthusiastically received. It was a pleasure to donate Braille equipment, speaking watches, speaking calculators and games for the blind as well as footballs, netballs and pens, for the sighted. To complete the visit we joined in with a PE lesson consisting of a team game of ‘over and under’. Our pupils had to do it with their eyes closed and soon understood how skilful their adversaries were. Yet another ‘magic moment’ to conclude a busy and tiring day.

Malawi Trip - Day 7 - Thursday 9 July

Mabiri Science Laboratory project

At 8 a.m. we waved farewell to the staff of Luwawa Lodge who had looked after us so well over the past three days. The buses, yet again, ploughed through the soft, dusty road to reach the M1 and the two hour journey to Mabiri Community School where we were greeted by cheering pupils, the local community, drummers, dancers and a group of Ngoni warriors bedecked in their traditional animal skin robes.

The area Project Committee, several local headmen and the Headmaster proudly escorted us around the newly constructed extension to the science laboratory that we had provided on the 2007 tour. To the obvious delight of staff and pupils we confirmed our commitment to fund the purchase of the necessary science equipment as well as donating several boxes of science textbooks. This was followed by an hour long celebration of traditional dancing and a brief visit to the local orphanage where children aged from one to six years old are cared for entirely by voluntary donations of time and labour from the local community. Although we had been in Mabiri for only a few hours the impression will last a life time.

The rest of the day was spent travelling back to our adopted home, Kamuzu Academy. Excitement over the pupils gradually drifted off to their rooms tired and drained from a long, enthralling day – time? 9.00 pm. They had already adjusted to the African way of life – early rise, early to bed. Goodnight all!