The Grammar School at Leeds' BLOG

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This blog will be wound-down over the course of the 2009/10 academic year.

News, trips blogs, galleries etc are now posted on our website - see http://www.gsal.org.uk

Thank you.

Malawi Trip Day 16

Day 16 Saturday 18 July 2009

The group could deservedly take advantage of a lie-in as breakfast was served from 7.00 a.m. to 9.30 a.m. Despite this a few hardy souls emerged to bask in the early morning sun and two staff were seen doing hippo impressions in the lake’s still waters. Breakfast consisted of an almost unlimited choice of fruit juice, five different cereals, a variety of freshly baked breads, exotic fruits, yoghurt, full English breakfast, cheeses –or there again all of them!

The activities on offer consisted of a boat trip to snorkel and swim off Boadzulu Island, water-skiing, canoeing or the simple sport of lying back and dreaming of the next e-mail, meal, journey on a dirt road, mountain to climb (delete where appropriate).

A few of the pupils took the opportunity to play a round of golf at the fabulously designed Mlambe course.  This is a 9-hole par three with water on almost every hole set out amidst towering baobab and palm trees.

In the afternoon we boarded the MV Sunbird or one of two speedboats for a trip to Boadzulu Island. Nearing the island the crew threw fish overboard to attract the fish eagles from the island to swoop down and pluck the fish off the surface – the animal equivalent of a fast food takeaway. Anchored in the bay there was a choice of snorkelling to view the myriad of ciclids that swarm around the island or diving and jumping from the back of the boat. Most diving efforts scored low on the degree of difficulty but high on the tsunami scale for execution.

As we sailed back to the resort we watched the setting sun dip below the mountains. The sky was  highlighted with a reddish glow – a picturesque backdrop for the many fishing boats casting their nets.

The evening entertainment consisted of a troupe of acrobatics and local Gulu Wankulu dancers – all performed rhythmically to the sound of African drumming. An exciting end to yet another action packed day.

Malawi Trip - Day 24/25 Departure and flight home

The staff were just finishing breakfast as the first students appeared at the unheard of late time of 7.45 a.m. – what a change in 3 weeks. By 10.00 the 4 buses were packed for the final time as we slowly manoeuvred our way through city traffic to Lilongwe International airport. Checking in, as usual, was its chaotic norm but we eventually made it through immigration, customs, security and duty free without too much hassle. The formality of bureaucracy associated with air travel was in stark contrast to our previous three weeks of freedom from the trappings of modern society.

The long, long wait at Nairobi was punctuated with occasional forays for drinks, food or yet more curios and the odd ‘koi koi’ - the East African equivalent of the chitenje sarong.

Just before midnight we boarded the Boeing 777 for the final flight home. After the evening meal (early hours of the morning actually) everyone settled down to watch one of the latest movies – except my screen didn’t work – welcome back to modern technology.

Instead I took the time to look around at the students and staff I had come to know so well over the last three weeks. Old friendships had been deepened, new acquaintances made and, hopefully, with a host of new experiences of life in a developing country to reflect upon in the coming months. The disparate group who had assemble three weeks ago were returning wiser, more knowledgeable and perhaps more sensitive and aware of the nee less fortunate than themselves.  I regard it a privilege to have been in their company and I can say categorically that the son, daughter or member of staff who I am returning to you today is not the same as the one I took away three weeks ago. I hope they are better world citizens – perhaps inspired and willing to do something concrete for the people they have met in Malawi.

As we drive through the school gates we receive a warm welcome form family and friends. The 10^th Malawi tour finishes in much the same way as before –smiles, handshakes, hugs and tears – a rollercoaster of emotions that typifies the past three weeks.

As they say at the end of the original Bugs Bunny cartoons ‘That’s all folks!’

Malawi Trip - Day 23 Dedza Pottery

Question: How do you fit 20kg of clothing and other items plus all the purchases made en route into the same suitcase and still only weigh 20kg?

Answer: Give away most of the original clothing.

This is exactly what many of the tour party had done and soon we had 8 baskets overflowing with clothes that could be given to the needy of Malawi. By 8 a.m. Ryalls’ car park was heaving with girls, hosts, friends, well-wishers and mounds of luggage. Eventually order was restored, bags packed on to the Tata bus and the pupils and staff on board the three mini-buses. We waved goodbye to some very kind hotel staff, our resident Mr Fix-it David Russell and newly made friends as we started the first leg of the journey home, a drive of 311 kilometres to Lilongwe. Within minutes most were asleep, still recovering from Mulanje and the previous late night – an unheard of 11 pm finish.  

At Dedza we stopped for lunch at Panjira Lodge nestled at the foot of the Dedza mountain range before visiting the renowned Dedza Pottery factory where everyone could indulge in some last minute shopping or sample the fresh coffee and blackcurrant cheesecake – what luxury! Another two hour’s drive took us to Lilongwe for another overnight stay at the Korea Gardens Lodge.

After supper Mr Veitch hosted an amusing tour awards session while Mr Brindley met with some of his former students from Kamuzu Academy in the 1980s. A nostalgic evening all round.

Malawi Trip - Day 22, Friday 26 July 2009

Another action packed day (just for a change) started with a visit to see the amazing work of Mary’s Meals. The first stop was at two feeding centres in the township area of Chiradzulu. One of the centres had been financed by the 20035 tour and we were welcomed with songs, poems and smiling orphans. The boys and girls helped to feed the small children with a mug of Likuni Phala (a protein enriched soya porridge) – for many it would be their only food of the day.

The feeding programme of Mary’s Meals has been extended to primary schools in order to improve attendance and attainment. The progress has been amazing. The primary school in Chiradzulu is the same size as GSAL with over 2400 pupils – each of whom were fed by the volunteer parents. The tour party were welcomed with much dancing and singing. A presentation of footballs, netballs, pens and pencils was warmly welcomed by the enthusiastic student body.

Spotting a brief gap in the scheduled programme MR B quickly organised a brief visit to Open Arms orphanage in Blantyre. Although our party of 51 swamped the small building the staff welcomed us and soon every child had a boy or girl to help feed or to play with. However, Mrs Stiles was the envy of all as she cradled Emmanuela, a week old baby who had been abandoned in a toilet. The flying visit culminated in Joe Dawson presenting Adina, a girl with cerebral palsy, with a Kaye Walker to enable her to have more independent movement around the home

After a packed morning it was off to Mandala House, a national monument to the early days of Nyasaland and also home to one of the best art and curio boutiques, a restaurant and a small museum. Paninis flew out of the kitchen at an alarming rate and the queue for the home-made ice cream grew exponentially as everyone became aware of its quality. Meanwhile the ‘shoppers’ were adding to their hordes of wooden curios and artefacts (Kenya Airways have already arranged to add a roof rack and a trailer to the Boeing 777). Mr B succumbed, yet again, to the appeal of art work by Malawian artist David Kelly and a painting of a baby elephant was soon added to the burgeoning collection at chez Brindley.

In the afternoon we visited the new children’s orthopaedic hospital built with funds from the Beit Trust and CURE International. The facilities are second to none with a fee-paying service providing the funds for free treatment of people from rural areas up and down the country. During an informative tour we handed out soft toys to the children and mothers.

In the evening we assembled for the official farewell presentation in a beautifully decorated function room of Ryalls Hotel. Everyone donned their best finery for the occasion where we were joined by over 70 guests and Rotarians. Five of the boys and girls gave extremely polished reports on different aspects of the tour – no one could fail to be impressed by both the content and the delivery of the presentations

Donations totalling £13000 were handed out to Open Arms, Jacaranda House Children’s Home, The Children’s Fund of Malawi, Cure Hospital, the premature baby unit, the Mulanje Mountain Trust, the Endangered Species of Malawi Trust and the Rotary Clubs of Blantyre, Limbe and Lilongwe. As well as these amounts donations of over £5000 had already been made earlier in the tour. Also another 12 tons of medical and educational material was on its way in a container. Very generously Ryalls Hotel matched our main donation to the outreach programme in Thyolo which meant the charity had over £4000 to fund its magnificent work among the most needy in society.

The only task remaining was to pack ready for an early start next morning.

Question: How do you fit carvings, curios and cloth into an already full suitcase? Answer: With great difficulty.

Hmmm!

POSTSCRIPT - the trip has arrived back safely. Mr Brindley will continue to post from Spain, where he is now headed.

Malawi Trip - Day 21, Thursday 25 July 2009

The early morning breakfast call was met with real enthusiasm as everyone assumed that going downhill was easier than walking uphill. The first shock was the long haul out of the valley to the summit at 2100 metres for a team photo. The suggestion of swapping a night at Ryalls Hotel for another night on the mountain was met by stony silence as most of the pupils were already fixating on hot showers and baths.

The second shock was the difficulty of striding downhill. Knees and thighs were severely tested. Those who had invested in Mulanje cedar walking poles were reaping the benefit of an extra ‘leg’ or two. Despite this assistance one or two still managed to  have an argument with the odd rock (the rock won every time).

By early afternoon the entire party had reached Likhabula Falls but the appeal of  a hot shower overcame the desire for a plunge in the freezing cold water of the mountain river. Everyone deservedly felt a real sense of achievement and will treasure special memories of unspoilt beauty for years to come. As many agreed ascending and descending Mount Mulanje had been the hardest physical effort they had ever achieved.

No doubt tthhe hotel staff knew we had arrived as we all smelled of wood smoke and were in dire need of a long soaking. Keeping downwind of the fellow hotel guests we quickly headed for our rooms. A hot bath and a flushing toilet – what luxuries! Room service – a gin and tonic to the bathroom of room 231 please. Now where’s the soap gone?

Malawi Trip - Day 20, Wednesday 24 July 2009

The first rays of light illuminated the mountain peak opposite the hut as heads started to appear from inside sleeping bags - but not for long as the temperature was barely above zero. Not until the log fires were fully alight did pupils gradually emerge like GSAL butterflies from their cocoons. A healthy breakfast of warmed croissants, cereals and toast soon restored the circulation ready for the challenges ahead.

Depending how stiff your joints were from yesterday’s ascent the options available were a ‘short, easy’ stroll to Lenje Pools or the more arduous ascent of Cilembwe Peak. Surprisingly the majority opted for the latter. Unfortunately your correspondent had to remain behind to organise the ‘stroll’ to the edge of the plateau so the ‘immense effort’, ‘tough ascent’ and ‘incredible views’ are mere hearsay provided by the exhausted band who joined us at the pools some three hours later.

Meanwhile the leisurely group complained it was neither ‘short’ nor ‘easy’ but once at the pools all was forgotten as everyone gaped at the fantastic views across the Mulanje Plain and the 5000 ft drop to the tea estates below.

Some even braved the freezing waters for a ‘dip’ in the pools (no one lasted more than a few minutes).

Back at base camp Malawi’s answer to ‘Ready, Steady, Cook’ soon had the choice of chicken a la king or spicy beans on offer. It was a close contest but I think ‘red peppers’ won the day as a second helping of chicken a la king had to be cooked – well done staff. For an hour after supper the pupils chatted away enthusiastically but gradually the ‘butterflies’ returned to their cocoons and conversation was replaced with gentle breathing and/or snoring depending which room you were in – which reminds me – another log on the fire and zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.  

Malawi Trip - Day 19, Tuesday 23 July 2009

Breakfast at 6 a.m. was aquiet affair as each person contemplated the task ahead. The weather was still not good (raining with a low mist) and a decision whether to climb the mountain would be taken when we reached Mulanje. As we approached the town we could see the mountain, jutting above the early morning clouds. At the forestry headquarters the group took advantage of the single flushing toilet, a luxury they will come to appreciate over the next three days.

After organising 57 porters to take the supplies and equipment up the mountain we set off at by crossing the Likhabula River and ascending the first of many steep slopes.   The first section o the climb is through woodland and is relatively easy compared to the later sections. However, this ‘gentle’ part still produced complaints on a scale normally reserved for excessive homework or school rules. The first stop at a gentle stream was the lull before the storm. The next section is so steep you have a permanent view of the front person’s calves. It was at this point that comparisons were made with the relative ‘stroll’ up Ngara Mountain. Today’s ascent was now measured in a new unit of height, an Ngara! The plateau is 3 ½ Ngaras above us. 

The final section of the ascent is through a thick rainforest, which provided some welcome shade. Emerging from the forest the party divided, the boys taking the path to the CCAP hut and the girls the path to Lichenya.

From the junction of pathways we only had to cross four valleys to reach each of the huts, a sight most heartily welcomed by all. The ascent had required a great deal of physical and mental effort. Well done everyone! All that was now needed was to cook a meal on log fires for 51 ravenous but exhausted people. By 9 p.m. mattresses and sleeping bags adorned the floor space as the temperature dropped towqards freezing. Another log on the fire please!

Malawi Trip - Day 18, Monday 20 July 2009

Heavy rain overnight resulted in the cancellation of our first activity as the dirt roads on to the Satemwa tea and coffee estate were too impassable – no problem, a quick reverse and it was off to Jacaranda House for a quick tour of the orphanage. This accomplished we were soon back on schedule with a visit to the Thyolo Outreach programme. This is a venture done by Anne Davidson under the auspices of the Malawi Children’s Fund with the assistance of Magritte Sacranie. These two remarkable women help to feed, clothe and educate many of the orphans of the Thyolo and Bvumbwe districts as well as caring for the elderly. We were given a tremendous welcome with singing and dancing by the local villagers. After a brief talk in the local church the pupils helped to distribute the daily meal to the many disadvantaged – a humbling but happy experience. Before leaving we [presented the four eldest with blankets. One lady was 96 years old while ‘Bizwick’ didn’t know when he was born but he was well into his nineties.

The day was rounded off with a second visit to Jacaranda House, this time to meet the children who had just returned from School. For several hours they entertained us with songs, poems and dances. It was obvious that they were all well cared for and loved by the nuns.

The evening was spent preparing both physically and mentally for the task ahead – climbing Mulanje Mountain. The poor weather cast some doubt on the venture as good visibility is a key safety requirement. Everyone hoped for two things – good weather and that the mountain was not as difficult to climb as it appears. I can answer the latter in the negative. The weather will have to wait. Goodnight all!

Malawi Trip - Day 17, Sunday 19 July 2009

As the sun rose over the distant mountains the pupils and staff emerged in emerged in small bands to contemplate the peacefulness of the lake in the early morning. The morning pace bordered on the funereal as a leisurely breakfast was succeeded by horizontal PE on the sun-beds

True to form Mr B soon injected a taste of reality, encouraging the tour party to abandon their limpet like existence for the more restricted ‘luxury’ of the Japanese built mini-buses. Although only a brief visit Lake Malawi had cast its spell over the entire group with some requiring a tyre lever to remove them from the glittering sandy beach. However, new adventures beckoned.

Only a few miles from Club Makokola is the site of the new Open Arms orphanage at Mangoche. We were warmly greeted by Neville Beavis and his staff who gave us a conducted tour of the buildings and the adjacent Malawi Children’s Village. The latter organisation is an amazing success story where the drive of a single Malawian has created a school, a library, vocational training as well as a home for the many orphans in the Mangoche district. Back at Open Arms we helped with feeding time. The boys as well as the girls were soon displaying their natural parental instincts cuddling, playing and feeding the small babies. To end our brief visit we donated some of the £4000 of equipment that had been financed through the Dawson family and friends. Joe Dawson proudly presented baby grows, baby powder, bibs etc to a grateful nursing staff.

The afternoon was spent winding our way along the lakeshore and then up onto the Zomba plain where we were able to get the first glimpse of Mulanje Mountain. Jutting up through the clouds it certainly deserved its nickname as the ‘island in the sky’. It made Ngara seem like a small hill. The final task of the day was to check into Ryalls Hotel, a four star establishment where luxury is the norm. No complaints here from the pupils or staff as they sampled the power showers, the pool and the gym before enjoying a mini banquet in the seclusion of the conference room.